Welcome to the Caballitos del Mar blog.

This site is intended to provide more information for our guests who are staying at our homes in Dominical, Puntarenas, Costa Rica, or for anyone traveling to that area. Please feel free to visit our vrbo.com listing. Caballitos del Mar consists of three homes one km south of Dominical, owned by the Bernardi and Hawley families. Our property manager is Neil Harding, who is a wonderful resource when planning a trip to the South Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. We hope you enjoy the site.

Sunday, January 2, 2011

Introduction

Activities Near Dominical


Activities are generally half day or full day, and can be booked at many places in Dominical, including through Neil Harding, our property manager. Many are free if you're willing to do some driving or hiking on your own. Here are some of our favorites.
Nayuca Waterfall. Best day trip ever.
Nayuca Waterfalls and Horseback Ride. A wonderful family will take you on a gorgeous horseback ride to the family home for a delicious breakfast, followed by a trip to a waterfall and swimming hole. On the return you’ll have lunch at the same home. Takes about 5 hours, cost is about $50 per person.
Corcovado Ranger Station and Boat Ride. This takes an entire day and consists of a drive to Sierpe, about an hour south, and then a boat ride out the Rio Sierpe, through the surf, and down the coast to the Corcovado Ranger Station. This is one of the most bio diverse areas in the world, and is a must for birders, monkey seekers, and naturalists of all types. Breakfast and lunch are provided, plus transportation and the boat ride. About $70pp.
Bug on Rio Sierpe. No extra charge!
You can also drive to Sierpe and rent a boat and a guide for a two-hour trip on the river. Very pleasant mangrove swamp with bats, birds, cayman, and other creatures. About $25pp.
Another alternative is to go to Isla CaƱo instead of Corcovado. This is an island off the mouth of the Rio Sierpe with good snorkeling and hiking. This is also one of the key scuba spots on the coast, since the water is not as turbid as it can be on the coast. About $70pp.
Zip Lining at Hacienda Baru. This is north on La Costanera (The Coast Highway) from Dominical about 5km. Fun zip lining in the jungle with naturalists. Safe, exciting, and reasonably priced. $25pp


Surfing in Dominical. Many, perhaps most, people visit Dominical for the surf. Depending on the tide and swell, you can have surf that's great for anyone from beginners to experts, and it's extremely accessible by just paddling out from the beach. It can also be a little overwhelming, so know the conditions and consider taking lessons from one of the many excellent surf schools and surf camps in town. We like Costa Rica Surf Camp, but others are very good as well.
River Rafting. We’ve now done this on two rivers in the area: Rio Guabo is narrow and in a narrow canyon while Rio Savegre is quite large and about half way between Dominical and Quepos. Either is loads of fun. The guides provide the requisite helmets, paddles, and safety instruction. A fresh fruit lunch is served along the way. We generally book at Dominical Surf Adventures, on the left as you enter town. Ask for Henry. $80-100pp.


The gorgeous swimming hole on the river that
passes through Dominicalito. 
Swimming Hole in Dominicalito. This is a lovely, quiet swimming hole on the river that passes through Dominicalito, about half a kilometer south of the homes. You have to know what to look for, but it's a short hike up the Dominicalito road and off to the right. Ask a local for directions.

Secret Swimming Hole with Waterfall: If you're really into bouldering and exotic locations, we have a secret waterfall hike that we love, and it's virtually unknown to tourists. We won't tell you where it is until you book with us, to keep the traffic down, but it's worth it. Gorgeous swimming and diving with total privacy.
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. This is the big draw in the Quepos area, and when we visited the park in 1992, it was very sleepy and quiet. On a recent visit, the touristy shops have now lined the park entrance and there is a $10pp charge to walk into the park. It’s still probably worth it, but it’s lost some of its appeal.
Sportfishing. There are a few smaller sportfishing boats available to charter in Dominicalito. We haven’t tried it yet, but the fishing is supposed to be great in Quepos and we presume it’s good in Dominical as well.
Disco Nights. If you’re interested in partying and dancing, there is generally one place in town each night that hosts a late night disco. Roca Verde, for example, has disco night on Saturdays. Maracatu, Patron's, and Coco also host alternate evenings. Like many Latin nocturnal activities, the party doesn’t really get going until after midnight.


Kayaking. There's both sea kayaking and river/estuary kayaking available in the area. An easy choice is to go just north of Hacienda Baru with a local Dominical outfitter and  explore the mangroves. Very reasonably priced.


Restaurants in the Dominical Area

Don’t let the $$$ designations throw you off: virtually every restaurant on this list is a great value, but some are a little pricier than others. You won’t better food for the money than at Exotica. About $30 per person with wine.
Dominical
Mono Congoexcellent food along the river. $$
Rum Bar: good pizza and drinks. $$
Maracatu: inexpensive vegetarian food for lunch and dinner. $$
Tortilla Flats: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Surfer hangout, but the food is excellent and cheap. Try their Mahi either way, or Casado, which is kind of the CR National meal. $
Confusione: Viviana runs a nice tapas restaurant and 20 room hotel (Domilocos). Off the beaten track, but excellent food and she is a great friend. Note: not always open, especially in the Green Season. $$
Villas Rio Mar: up the Rio Baru about 1km, part of the resort at which we stayed originally. The rooms, meals, and service are very nice, and we enjoy going there for an afternoon swim in their pool with a swim-up bar. Full bar and good menu. $$$
Roca Verde: great bar and food. They have a disco on Saturday night (which you will hear if you stay at Caballitos del Mar). Mike is the owner, and it’s both good food and reasonably priced. Their Ahi Specials is about the best food in the area. Check ahead of time to see if they have it. $$
La Parcela: fantastic location, especially at sunset or for lunch. South of our home by about 1.5 km, just south of Dominicalito. Seafood and other entrees. $$$
Ojochal
Yes, it's Exotica, with their avocado pineapple salad. 
Exotica: our favorite place, run by Lucy and Bernard, transplanted French-Canadians. Excellent food, full bar, reasonable prices, although it’s exactly 30 minutes south of the homes. Drive south, past Uvita, and look for Playa Ventanas (small beach sign on right.) Continue to Ojochal, turn left off the highway. Continue straight across a small concrete bridge. Turn left after the bridge and drive about 1km on a dirt road. Continue until you see the restaurant sign. Reservations recommended. Well worth the drive. +(506) 2786-5050 $$$

Saturday, January 1, 2011

The "Standard" Costa Rican Vacation

I am not sure that there is such a thing as a "standard" Costa Rican vacation, but there are commonly-repeated themes that could serve as a template for vacations. We first visited Costa Rica in 1992, with 3 1/2 year old Sandy and a very pregnant Susan. That original trip was wonderful, and made us want to come back to Costa Rica again and again, and it led to our home building project in Dominical 14 years later. The "standard" vacation template that we followed still works in 2016.

Step One: Arrive in San Jose (actually Alejuela)
Indoor pool at the Don Carlos in downtown San Jose.
As described on the "Getting There" page, it's easy to get to Costa Rica using any of about a half dozen airlines from either Europe or the United States. Juan Santamaria Airport is efficient, cordial, and while constantly under construction, it's very clean and modern. Since you generally arrive in the evening, take a cab to your hotel. Don't worry about being taken advantage of: we find the taxi drivers to be honest and eager to please. The Marriott Hotel is among the nicest, but we also enjoy some of the smaller hotels in the surrounding areas, like the highly rated Studio Hotel in Santa Ana, which offers nice rooms and they avoid the frantic pace (and noise) of the city. Not all areas of San Jose are tourist friendly, so get some advice before striking out on foot to find a restaurant. You won't spend too much time in San Jose anyway, since it only serves as a base for your adventures.


Step Two: Out and Back to San Jose
This might be a tremendous understatement, but there are about 25 different things to do in Costa Rica. That's it. Volcanoes, rain forest, beaches, turtles, monkeys, cloud forests, surfing, fishing, kayaking, and a few others. Each of these pursuits can be wrapped up in a 2-4 day expedition, that can be accessed from San Jose. There are dozens of quality tour operators who will:

1. Pick you up at the hotel in the morning in a small tourist bus.
2. Drive you safely around town while picking up like-minded tourists.
3. Deliver you to some point of interest (boat, resort, trail) so that you can start your adventure.
4. Insure that you're greeted at the resort/park, and that you're set up for a few days.
5. Your time at the resort/park is generally prepaid so your meals are taken care of, and many minor expeditions are included. Meals are communal (which is one of the great treats) since you can meet interesting people from around the world.
6. The tour operator will arrange for your flight/boat ride/bus ride back to San Jose.
7. Spend the night, and strike out for Expedition #2 the next morning.

The only question is which expedition you choose, and that's where the 25 different choices come in. While we have been to Costa Rica about 20 times, we have only been on a dozen or so expeditions, but we've also spoken with hundreds of tourists who have tried virtually all the rest. We recommend finding a travel agent who's familiar with Costa Rica, like we did in 1992, because they can put together an efficient itinerary that works within your budget.


Step Three: Which Expeditions?
Whether you call them tours, or expeditions, or excursions, they are generally wonderful, relatively good values, and professionally staffed. Apparently tour guides in Costa Rica are required to take lots of training in biology (and other sciences) and tourism, and we have found the guides to be informed and pleasant. Here's a tiny sample of what we have enjoyed doing:

Tortuguero

Pool at Mawamba Lodge at night
Sandy and Natty on the canal
This is the coastal area in the northeast corner of the country which is famous for the sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beaches. The geography is much different than the rest of the country, with a low jungly coastal plain leading to the always-rough Caribbean Sea. No matter: although you'll take a small powerboat to get to Tortuguero, there's a canal that runs parallel to the sea which is extremely calm and which runs through some beautiful jungle areas. We've always stayed at the Mawamba Lodge, but we've heard good reports about the other lodges in the area. Great for naturalists and beachcombers. We recommend either two or three nights.

Volcan Irazu

Gorgeous tree frog in the jungle
This is probably the most accessible volcano from the San Jose/Cartago areas. It makes a great day trip, and gives travelers a good perspective of the San Jose/Cartago area. The volcano is dormant presently, and has a turquoise lake in the crater. On the way back from the top of the volcano, many tours stop by a Botanical Garden Lankester, which has hundreds of Costa Rican species accessible by pleasant walking trails.

Siquirres to Guapiles (Province of Limon)

On our trip in 1992, we ended up in a Rain Forest lodge outside of Siquirres which was marvelous, but we'll be darned if we can find the name of the lodge. It was the rainy season, and for a few days we shared a 20 room resort with another couple. It was perched on the banks of a gorgeous river which flowed to the Caribbean Sea, and we ended up horseback riding, river exploring, and enjoying three beautifully prepared meals a day for about $100 per day for the three of us. Obviously times have changed, but we find that Costa Rica is full of quality eco-lodges that are family-friendly and very reasonably priced.

Volcan Arenal

OK, we admit it, it took us many years before we actually reached Arenal, since our villas in the south are about 4 hours away by the coastal highway. In the last few years, we've made "day trips" to Arenal, leaving from Dominical, then ending up in Santa Ana prior to departure. It's a wonderful, breathing, living piece of geography, surrounded by nice resorts and activities. We don't claim to be experts, so buy a guide book or search online.

We're hoping to stay at the Tree Houses when we can fit it in our schedule, based on the very positive reviews we've read and the very concept of building rooms up in trees. Volcan Arenal is very popular, since it's an active volcano and not many of us will get a chance to stay at a resort with a volcano spewing lava in close proximity. My parents visited Arenal based on our recommendation in 1995, and flat out loved it.

Step Four: Repeat as Needed
For our original trip to Costa Rica, we had 16 days, and ended up spending three in Tortuguero, three in the Province of Limon rain forest, and seven days in Quepos. With days in between for recovering, we used our time reasonably wisely, but frankly, we felt we had too much down-time in San Jose and not enough time seeing the sights. We concluded that it would be better to return from an excursion in the afternoon, and be packed and ready to go on the next one the following day.

We should also point out that we did not rent a car the first time, and we now always rent a car. Sure: it depends. Allowing a tour operator to take you to and fro is actually a great luxury, and there's no insurance, parking, vandalism, or the other issues that come with having a car. But if you want to explore on your own, we find the driving to be relatively safe, polite, and medium-easy to navigate. You can even rent a Garmin nuvi at various rental car agencies, although we cannot vouch for the map accuracy!

The "Standard" Costa Rican Vacation

I am not sure that there is such a thing as a "standard" Costa Rican vacation, but there are commonly-repeated themes that could serve as a template for vacations. We first visited Costa Rica in 1992, with 3 1/2 year old Sandy and a very pregnant Susan. That original trip was wonderful, and made us want to come back to Costa Rica again and again, and it led to our home building project in Dominical 14 years later. The "standard" vacation template that we followed still works in 2016.

Step One: Arrive in San Jose (actually Alejuela)
Indoor pool at the Don Carlos
As described on the "Getting There" page, it's easy to get to Costa Rica using any of about a half dozen airlines from either Europe or the United States. Juan Santamaria Airport is efficient, cordial, and while constantly under construction, it's very clean and modern. Since you generally arrive in the evening, take a cab to your hotel. Don't worry about being taken advantage of: we find the taxi drivers to be honest and eager to please. The Marriott Hotel is among the nicest, but we also enjoy some of the smaller hotels in the surrounding areas, like the highly rated Studio Hotel in Santa Ana, which offers nice rooms and they avoid the frantic pace (and noise) of the city. Not all areas of San Jose are tourist friendly, so get some advice before striking out on foot to find a restaurant. You won't spend too much time in San Jose anyway, since it only serves as a base for your adventures.


Step Two: Out and Back to San Jose
This might be a tremendous understatement, but there are about 25 different things to do in Costa Rica. That's it. Volcanoes, rain forest, beaches, turtles, monkeys, cloud forests, surfing, fishing, kayaking, and a few others. Each of these pursuits can be wrapped up in a 2-4 day expedition, that can be accessed from San Jose. There are dozens of quality tour operators who will:

1. Pick you up at the hotel in the morning in a small tourist bus.
2. Drive you safely around town while picking up like-minded tourists.
3. Deliver you to some point of interest (boat, resort, trail) so that you can start your adventure.
4. Insure that you're greeted at the resort/park, and that you're set up for a few days.
5. Your time at the resort/park is generally prepaid so your meals are taken care of, and many minor expeditions are included. Meals are communal (which is one of the great treats) since you can meet interesting people from around the world.
6. The tour operator will arrange for your flight/boat ride/bus ride back to San Jose.
7. Spend the night, and strike out for Expedition #2 the next morning.

The only question is which expedition you choose, and that's where the 25 different choices come in. While we have been to Costa Rica about 20 times, we have only been on a dozen or so expeditions, but we've also spoken with hundreds of tourists who have tried virtually all the rest. We recommend finding a travel agent who's familiar with Costa Rica, like we did in 1992, because they can put together an efficient itinerary that works within your budget.


Step Three: Which Expeditions?
Whether you call them tours, or expeditions, or excursions, they are generally wonderful, relatively good values, and professionally staffed. Apparently tour guides in Costa Rica are required to take lots of training in biology (and other sciences) and tourism, and we have found the guides to be informed and pleasant. Here's a tiny sample of what we have enjoyed doing:

Tortuguero

Pool at Mawamba Lodge at night
Sandy and Natty on the canal
This is the coastal area in the northeast corner of the country which is famous for the sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beaches. The geography is much different than the rest of the country, with a low jungly coastal plain leading to the always-rough Caribbean Sea. No matter: although you'll take a small powerboat to get to Tortuguero, there's a canal that runs parallel to the sea which is extremely calm and which runs through some beautiful jungle areas. We've always stayed at the Mawamba Lodge, but we've heard good reports about the other lodges in the area. Great for naturalists and beachcombers. We recommend either two or three nights.

Volcan Irazu

Gorgeous tree frog in the jungle
This is probably the most accessible volcano from the San Jose/Cartago areas. It makes a great day trip, and gives travelers a good perspective of the San Jose/Cartago area. The volcano is dormant presently, and has a turquoise lake in the crater. On the way back from the top of the volcano, many tours stop by a Botanical Garden Lankester, which has hundreds of Costa Rican species accessible by pleasant walking trails.

Siquirres to Guapiles (Province of Limon)

On our trip in 1992, we ended up in a Rain Forest lodge outside of Siquirres which was marvelous, but we'll be darned if we can find the name of the lodge. It was the rainy season, and for a few days we shared a 20 room resort with another couple. It was perched on the banks of a gorgeous river which flowed to the Caribbean Sea, and we ended up horseback riding, river exploring, and enjoying three beautifully prepared meals a day for about $100 per day for the three of us. Obviously times have changed, but we find that Costa Rica is full of quality eco-lodges that are family-friendly and very reasonably priced.

Volcan Arenal

OK, we admit it, it took us many years before we actually reached Arenal, since our villas in the south are about 4 hours away by the coastal highway. In the last few years, we've made "day trips" to Arenal, leaving from Dominical, then ending up in Santa Ana prior to departure. It's a wonderful, breathing, living piece of geography, surrounded by nice resorts and activities. We don't claim to be experts, so buy a guide book or search online.

We're hoping to stay at the Tree Houses when we can fit it in our schedule, based on the very positive reviews we've read and the very concept of building rooms up in trees. Volcan Arenal is very popular, since it's an active volcano and not many of us will get a chance to stay at a resort with a volcano spewing lava in close proximity. My parents visited Arenal based on our recommendation in 1995, and flat out loved it.

Step Four: Repeat as Needed
For our original trip to Costa Rica, we had 16 days, and ended up spending three in Tortuguero, three in the Province of Limon rain forest, and seven days in Quepos. With days in between for recovering, we used our time reasonably wisely, but frankly, we felt we had too much down-time in San Jose and not enough time seeing the sights. We concluded that it would be better to return from an excursion in the afternoon, and be packed and ready to go on the next one the following day.

We should also point out that we did not rent a car the first time, and we now always rent a car. Sure: it depends. Allowing a tour operator to take you to and fro is actually a great luxury, and there's no insurance, parking, vandalism, or the other issues that come with having a car. But if you want to explore on your own, we find the driving to be relatively safe, polite, and medium-easy to navigate. You can even rent a Garmin nuvi at various rental car agencies, although we cannot vouch for the map accuracy!