Driving to the Villas from SJO

Driving from Juan Santamaria Airport (coast route through Jaco and Quepos)

This route is relatively new, and there have been reports of road closures after heavy rains. When driving in Costa Rica, always try to anticipate a city in the direction of travel so that you’re prepared for junctions. Drivers are generally courteous, but may not yield to faster moving traffic by staying to the right. It’s common for the right lane to merge left, and you do not have any rights when this happens (Ceda El Paso). Merge early and carefully.

Take CA (Central America) 1 to the west about 4km. This requires that you leave the airport, exit to the right, then merge with westward traffic from the left. 

Exit at Radial El Coyol. Cross over highway on overpass. Take second exit at roundabout to continue on main road. This will go through several other roundabouts, and will eventually give you an option of Costa Rica Highway 27. 

CR 27 is a toll road and will cost about 1500 Colones total, at three toll booths. There are very few navigational choices to make, but you want to go in the direction of Orotina, Caldera, and Puntarenas. The road is frequently being repaired, so look out for slower traffic and temporary lane adjustments.

About 6km beyond Orotina, and immediately after the third toll booth, exit right following the signs to Jaco. You’ll be on this road for 90 minutes. The roadside restaurants are cheap and convenient. Continue past Jaco to Parrita, Quepos, and Dominical. 

At Dominical, you’ll pass over a large concrete bridge. Continue south for about 1.5km, past the Caldwell Banker office, the Resaurant Carreta, and the Restaurant Roca Verde. Our driveway is about 200 yds beyond Roca Verde on the right. It is marked by two reflective posts on either side of the driveway, and a red/white/blue utility pole that is visible during the day. You should be able to see the houses beyond the driveway. The driveway is steep and a sharp right hand turn, so put on your blinkers and take your time. At the bottom of the hill, turn into the driveway to the left or have the security guard open it for you. Each home has off-road parking so that no one is blocked in. This link should give you a good route using Google Maps.

Driving from Juan Santamaria Airport (via San Jose, Cartago, San Isidro de General)

This route is longer, but it travels over a high mountain pass which allows you to see the ecological diversity of the country. You’re above 9,000 feet for about an hour. Not for the faint of heart; there is truck and bus traffic which can be intimidating, along with slow vehicles and few safe places to pass. Take your time and get there safely. If it's foggy or rainy, really slow down!

Take CA 1 towards San Jose for about 12.5km.

Take the off ramp to CR 39, “Escazu” and “Hatillo”.

Stay on CR 39 for 10.5km. At the fifth traffic circle in Zapote, take highway 215 on right.

Travel in the direction of Cartago and Tres Rios. Highway 215 becomes CA 2 (Central America Route 2). This is also known as Carretera Interamericana.

Stay to the right through two junctions and continue to San Isidro de General on CA 2.

After 90 minutes, you’ll descend out of the mountains into San Isidro de General. Look for Route 243 to Dominical on the right.

Continue on Route 243 for 30km. Turn left on Route 34. You’ll cross a concrete bridge and be in Dominical. Here's a link from Google Maps.

The Villas of Caballitos del Mar

Location

In the jungle, but right on the beach...

The villas are located about 1km south of Dominical, Puntarenas, Costa Rica between the Costanera Sur (Southern Coast Highway) and the ocean. We were fortunate to find property in the Maritime Zone, which allows us to build close to the ocean, but with restrictions to protect the spectacular Costa Rican environment. The three villas, owned by two close families, are virtually identical. This makes Caballitos del Mar ideal for multiple families that want to vacation together, yet have separate accommodations.

Great kayaking in the mangroves 15 minutes away

Dominical is a popular small town that appeals to visitors interested in surfing, eco-tourism, or the excellent Spanish language school, Adventure Education Center, or AEC. The town is not built-up like some of the coastal cities to the north, and has fewer than 1,000 residents. It has the feeling of Kauai or some of the South Pacific island chains, with a laid-back tempo and friendly people.

The town's location makes it convenient for many south coast destinations, including Manuel Antonio National Park, Quepos, the Corcovado Peninsula, Uvita, and a large number of secluded beaches and surf spots.

Driving time from Juan Santamaria Airport or San Jose is about three hours by way of the coast, and four hours by way of the mountains. We've driven both routes many times, and while we prefer the coast route, we recommend that you experience the mountain route at least once to see a different aspect of the country.

On the beach, but secluded. View from the terrace.

The homes are all three bedroom and either three or four bathroom, two story, and approximately 2,200 sq.ft. (200 m^2) living space. Each home has a pool, laundry facilities, a full kitchen, and lots of ceiling fans to keep the air moving. The bedrooms are air-conditioned, although it's not necessary for most of the year. See these VRBO links: Villa 1, Villa 2, and Villa 3. If you prefer, you can look at them on Airbnb: Villa 3 on Airbnb.

The homes face the ocean and it's a 30 second walk to the semi-private beach. Dominical is a 20 minute walk by the beach (low to medium tide), where you can find restaurants, a beach with lifeguards, groceries, surf schools, and the language school.

Flying To and From Costa Rica from the U.S.

Getting There

While there has been the promise of a “southern” airport for more than a decade, your only choice is Juan Santamaria Airport in Alajuela, a city near San Jose. The airport code is SJO. Your airline choices are American, United, Continental, Frontier, Taca, Alaska, Southwest and a few others. We generally fly American via Dallas or Miami. From the West Coast, it takes about seven hours in the air, regardless of which route you take. From the East Coast, it can take a five hours in the air via Ft. Lauderdale or Miami. Gateway cities, depending on the airline, include Los Angeles, Denver, Phoenix, Dallas, Houston, Atlanta, Dulles, Ft. Lauderdale, and Miami.

Many flights end up departing from the US around 5:00pm, and arrive around 8:30pm, in Costa Rica. Incidentally, Costa Rica is in the Central time zone and does not change for daylight savings time, so it is permanently UTC -6 hours. While it’s possible to drive to Dominical after renting a car at night, we don’t recommend it because the roads are not well marked in many cases, and it can be difficult to find your way. (Relatively new Highway 27 and the improvements to Highway 34 have mitigated this warning somewhat, but perhaps wait until you're second trip to drive at night from the airport.) We recommend, instead, to stay near the airport overnight and get an early start the next day. Alternatively, you can take an early flight from Miami or Dallas, and arrive in Costa Rica before noon. Or take the redeye options from Los Angeles which arrive at 6:00am or so in SJO.

Alaska Airlines now serves San Jose (and Liberia) with a single flight per day out of LA. Interestingly, this takes off around 9:00am, and lands mid-afternoon, then returns an hour later. Prices were about $400 r/t in the "green season". 

If staying near the airport, consider the Marriott (extremely nice, about $200 per room per night) or the Studio Hotel in Santa Ana (about $100, and a tremendous deal).

Renting a Car

All major agencies are represented in the area surrounding the airport. We’ve had good luck with Toyota Rent-a-Car, which is very close to the airport and offers competitive rates on Rav4s and Prados (like a Land Cruiser in the US). We don’t recommend the compact SUVs due to poor crashworthiness, terrible performance, small cramped cabins, and the noise.

Arrange to be picked up when you make your reservation. As you exit the airport, you’ll be enveloped in a sea of men who offer taxis, other transportation, and all sorts of help. While a little intimidating, we’ve found them to be extremely helpful in contacting the rental car agency or just solving problems. 500-1000 colones (one to two dollars) is a good value for their services. Our experience is that they are there to serve your needs, not rip you off.

Getting Back

Many flights depart at 9:00am and 11:00am. While the 9:00am flight seems like it would be too early, you can leave Dominical around 4:00am, drive up the coast and get to the rental car agencies around 7:00am, and still have time to spare at the airport. The sunrise is beautiful as you drive up the coast, and there is little traffic. You’ll encounter some rush hour traffic as you get close to San Jose. We still think it’s the best option, and we’ve never missed a flight. Plus, you avoid the cost of an airport hotel.

You can get gas before returning your car right off the highway leading to the airport. As you drive north, you’ll pass the Firestone factory on the left. Take the next exit and turn left as you get to the surface streets. There will be a gas station immediately on your left. It’s equally easy to get back on the highway.

The airport tax is around $28.00, and can be paid in American dollars. Pay the airport tax before getting in line at the airline counters. American Airlines now (2016) includes the airport tax in their ticket price, which is a big convenience. Other airlines may have followed suit; the lines at the "tax counter" were dramatically shorter than in previous years. 

Renting a Car and Driving in Costa Rica

I think it is safe to say that driving in a country in which you do not reside (I am trying desperately to not say "a foreign country") is intimidating the first time, and possibly every time you do so. There are so many aspects that conspire to make your hands sweat, your heart race, and convince you to take a car with a driver next time around. We have rented cars in half a dozen countries, and we don't pretend to be experts, but we do have some advice on renting and driving in Costa Rica.

First, virtually all American car rental companies are represented at the airport. Yes, there are a few that you haven't seen in the U.S., but the normal Budget, Avis, Hertz, National, and so forth are there, So, if you have had good experience with any of those companies, you might feel comfortable continuing to use them.

Second, there are smaller companies that we have had good experience with. One is Toyotarent, which as the name implies, primarily rents Toyotas. We recommend that you use a travel shopping web site like Kayak or Expedia to find the right combination of price and vehicle.

Third, we think it makes sense to rent medium sized SUVs for most uses. We like the Toyota Rav4, but other models would also work. Relatively good on gas, rugged for the bad roads, and more likely to be survivable if the yogurt hits the fan. Many, many roads in Costa Rica are dirt and gravel, which turns into mud in the rainy season, and therefore a 4WD vehicle is required to give you access to some neat places.

Comparing prices can be difficult because of insurance costs. There is the mandatory insurance (liability) and then the extra insurance (collision, comprehensive). We've never quite figured out the right answer, but some credit cards (AmEx) will cover one or more of these insurance costs if you charge the rental on your card. While all the prices seem cheap initially, we find that it ends up costing $50-$90 per day after insurance, taxes, etc.

Fourth, our place is about 150km away, so buying the notorious fuel option can be a good idea. Fuel is expensive, so you don't want to return the car with half a tank. On a recent trip, we were upgraded to a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (large, but relatively simple SUV with a diesel engine. We opted for the pre-paid fuel and drove our entire five day trip on a single tank of fuel. There was 1/8 tank left when we returned to the airport. Your mileage may vary. We generally fly out early in the morning, so we leave the car at the airport (by prior arrangement). So, not having to get gas is a big plus.

Driving customs:

Hey, it's pretty much like the U.S. but there are a few differences. We have seen few examples of aggressive driving, as in road rage or purposefully dangerous driving, but we do see a lot of drivers taking chances. This shows up as passing cars and trucks in low-visibility locations, or taking corners too fast and too close to the center line, and so forth. This boils down to the old Driver's Training admonition: Drive Defensively. Assume that the other driver is going to take his half out of the middle. Presume that there are people crossing in the dark up ahead. Don't rely on blinkers or tail lights or following the speed limit.

Three specific things that you should be aware of: many, many multilane roads narrow, and the sign will say "Ceda el Paso". You really don't have any rights at this point so don't meekly merge into faster traffic. Come to a stop if you have to. This calls for advance planning, and getting into the left lane sooner. Don't wait until you see the signs.

Some two-lane highways will switch to four lane at major intersections with on- and off-ramps. Trucks and slow vehicles will not pull into the slow lanes, and it's infuriating if you're used to "slower traffic merge right". In this case, however, it seems entirely OK to pass on the right and keep moving. Don't ever expect a slow vehicle to pull over to let you pass.

Second, some Tico drivers drive extremely slowly and will not, under any circumstances, pull over the let you by. You must pass them which, since they are driving 20 miles per hour, is not difficult. But your high beams, horn, and gestures won't do a damned thing. It's both sweet and infuriating. Don't fight it: pass when safe on the right or left.

Finally, the roads are reasonably good between the airport and our place, but at night they are very dark and lack lines on the road (except at Jaco which is a Christmas tree by comparison. You need to use your high beams to see any appreciable distance down the road. You're going to dim them like you do in Canada and the U.S., but this will happen every 15 seconds. It's more akin to driving in a cave than driving in the open air. You can do it, but you'll only find lit roadways in cities and at some intersections.

Renting a Car and Driving in Costa Rica

I think it is safe to say that driving in a country in which you do not reside (I am trying desperately to not say "a foreign country") is intimidating the first time, and possibly every time you do so. There are so many aspects that conspire to make your hands sweat, your heart race, and convince you to take a car with a driver next time around. We have rented cars in half a dozen countries, and we don't pretend to be experts, but we do have some advice on renting and driving in Costa Rica.

First, virtually all American car rental companies are represented at the airport. Yes, there are a few that you haven't seen in the U.S., but the normal Budget, Avis, Hertz, National, and so forth are there, So, if you have had good experience with any of those companies, you might feel comfortable continuing to use them.

Second, there are smaller companies that we have had good experience with. One is Toyotarent, which as the name implies, primarily rents Toyotas. We recommend that you use a travel shopping web site like Kayak or Expedia to find the right combination of price and vehicle.

Third, we think it makes sense to rent medium sized SUVs for most uses. We like the Toyota Rav4, but other models would also work. Relatively good on gas, rugged for the bad roads, and more likely to be survivable if the yogurt hits the fan. Many, many roads in Costa Rica are dirt and gravel, which turns into mud in the rainy season, and therefore a 4WD vehicle is required to give you access to some neat places.

Comparing prices can be difficult because of insurance costs. There is the mandatory insurance (liability) and then the extra insurance (collision, comprehensive). We've never quite figured out the right answer, but some credit cards (AmEx) will cover one or more of these insurance costs if you charge the rental on your card. While all the prices seem cheap initially, we find that it ends up costing $50-$90 per day after insurance, taxes, etc.

Fourth, our place is about 150km away, so buying the notorious fuel option can be a good idea. Fuel is expensive, so you don't want to return the car with half a tank. On a recent trip, we were upgraded to a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (large, but relatively simple SUV with a diesel engine. We opted for the pre-paid fuel and drove our entire five day trip on a single tank of fuel. There was 1/8 tank left when we returned to the airport. Your mileage may vary. We generally fly out early in the morning, so we leave the car at the airport (by prior arrangement). So, not having to get gas is a big plus.

Driving customs:

Hey, it's pretty much like the U.S. but there are a few differences. We have seen few examples of aggressive driving, as in road rage or purposefully dangerous driving, but we do see a lot of drivers taking chances. This shows up as passing cars and trucks in low-visibility locations, or taking corners too fast and too close to the center line, and so forth. This boils down to the old Driver's Training admonition: Drive Defensively. Assume that the other driver is going to take his half out of the middle. Presume that there are people crossing in the dark up ahead. Don't rely on blinkers or tail lights or following the speed limit.

Three specific things that you should be aware of: many, many multilane roads narrow, and the sign will say "Ceda el Paso". You really don't have any rights at this point so don't meekly merge into faster traffic. Come to a stop if you have to. This calls for advance planning, and getting into the left lane sooner. Don't wait until you see the signs.

Some two-lane highways will switch to four lane at major intersections with on- and off-ramps. Trucks and slow vehicles will not pull into the slow lanes, and it's infuriating if you're used to "slower traffic merge right". In this case, however, it seems entirely OK to pass on the right and keep moving. Don't ever expect a slow vehicle to pull over to let you pass.

Second, some Tico drivers drive extremely slowly and will not, under any circumstances, pull over the let you by. You must pass them which, since they are driving 20 miles per hour, is not difficult. But your high beams, horn, and gestures won't do a damned thing. It's both sweet and infuriating. Don't fight it: pass when safe on the right or left.

Finally, the roads are reasonably good between the airport and our place, but at night they are very dark and lack lines on the road (except at Jaco which is a Christmas tree by comparison. You need to use your high beams to see any appreciable distance down the road. You're going to dim them like you do in Canada and the U.S., but this will happen every 15 seconds. It's more akin to driving in a cave than driving in the open air. You can do it, but you'll only find lit roadways in cities and at some intersections.

Introduction

Activities Near Dominical

Activities are generally half day or full day, and can be booked at many places in Dominical, including through Neil Harding, our property manager. Many are free if you're willing to do some driving or hiking on your own. Here are some of our favorites.

Nayuca Waterfall. Best day trip ever.

Nayuca Waterfalls and Horseback Ride. A wonderful family will take you on a gorgeous horseback ride to the family home for a delicious breakfast, followed by a trip to a waterfall and swimming hole. On the return you’ll have lunch at the same home. Takes about 5 hours, cost is about $50 per person.

Corcovado Ranger Station and Boat Ride. This takes an entire day and consists of a drive to Sierpe, about an hour south, and then a boat ride out the Rio Sierpe, through the surf, and down the coast to the Corcovado Ranger Station. This is one of the most bio diverse areas in the world, and is a must for birders, monkey seekers, and naturalists of all types. Breakfast and lunch are provided, plus transportation and the boat ride. About $70pp.

Bug on Rio Sierpe. No extra charge!

You can also drive to Sierpe and rent a boat and a guide for a two-hour trip on the river. Very pleasant mangrove swamp with bats, birds, cayman, and other creatures. About $25pp.

Another alternative is to go to Isla Caño instead of Corcovado. This is an island off the mouth of the Rio Sierpe with good snorkeling and hiking. This is also one of the key scuba spots on the coast, since the water is not as turbid as it can be on the coast. About $70pp.

Zip Lining at Hacienda Baru. This is north on La Costanera (The Coast Highway) from Dominical about 5km. Fun zip lining in the jungle with naturalists. Safe, exciting, and reasonably priced. $25pp

Surfing in Dominical. Many, perhaps most, people visit Dominical for the surf. Depending on the tide and swell, you can have surf that's great for anyone from beginners to experts, and it's extremely accessible by just paddling out from the beach. It can also be a little overwhelming, so know the conditions and consider taking lessons from one of the many excellent surf schools and surf camps in town. We like Costa Rica Surf Camp, but others are very good as well.

River Rafting. We’ve now done this on two rivers in the area: Rio Guabo is narrow and in a narrow canyon while Rio Savegre is quite large and about half way between Dominical and Quepos. Either is loads of fun. The guides provide the requisite helmets, paddles, and safety instruction. A fresh fruit lunch is served along the way. We generally book at Dominical Surf Adventures, on the left as you enter town. Ask for Henry. $80-100pp.

The gorgeous swimming hole on the river that
passes through Dominicalito. 

Swimming Hole in Dominicalito. This is a lovely, quiet swimming hole on the river that passes through Dominicalito, about half a kilometer south of the homes. You have to know what to look for, but it's a short hike up the Dominicalito road and off to the right. Ask a local for directions.

Secret Swimming Hole with Waterfall: If you're really into bouldering and exotic locations, we have a secret waterfall hike that we love, and it's virtually unknown to tourists. We won't tell you where it is until you book with us, to keep the traffic down, but it's worth it. Gorgeous swimming and diving with total privacy.

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. This is the big draw in the Quepos area, and when we visited the park in 1992, it was very sleepy and quiet. On a recent visit, the touristy shops have now lined the park entrance and there is a $10pp charge to walk into the park. It’s still probably worth it, but it’s lost some of its appeal.

Sportfishing. There are a few smaller sportfishing boats available to charter in Dominicalito. We haven’t tried it yet, but the fishing is supposed to be great in Quepos and we presume it’s good in Dominical as well.

Disco Nights. If you’re interested in partying and dancing, there is generally one place in town each night that hosts a late night disco. Roca Verde, for example, has disco night on Saturdays. Maracatu, Patron's, and Coco also host alternate evenings. Like many Latin nocturnal activities, the party doesn’t really get going until after midnight.

Kayaking. There's both sea kayaking and river/estuary kayaking available in the area. An easy choice is to go just north of Hacienda Baru with a local Dominical outfitter and  explore the mangroves. Very reasonably priced.